Ok, so I stole the following info from http://www.spain.info.es/ and http://www.t-descubre.com/. Sorry, I was too lazy to do all the research and rewrite it myself. However, these are my personal photos and my experience at Corpus is in my own words after the ‘History’ portion.
Corpus Christi is Toledo’s most important festival and one of its oldest. Although its exact date of origin is unknown, the festivity of Corpus Christi, promoted by Sister Juliana de Mont-Cornillón and instituted by Pope Urban IV sometime in the 13th century, forms part of a time-honoured tradition in Toledo. Over the past eight centuries it has come to be considered as the most important and socially represented festival in the city of Toledo. Tradition, culture and religion at this time are all in perfect agreement.
Zocodover during Corpus Christi
The celebration falls on the Sunday of the ninth week after Easter Sunday, generally between the end of May and the beginning of June. Today, this solemn religious procession is celebrated on the day of the Corpus Christi and presided by the Archbishop of Toledo. The city’s historic streets, especially decorated for the occasion, provide the backdrop for this striking procession. Five weeks before the religious procession, fairy-lights, garlands, forges, stained glass windows and other traditional objects help to build the excitement of the festival. The day before the feast of Corpus Christi, the streets are also draped with rich tapestries from the 16th and 17th century hung from the windows and balconies. The city then becomes an extension of the Cathedral and the streets are like an outdoor temple.
side streets of Zocodover
The highlight of the precession is the Monstrance, a priceless work of craftsmanship in gold and silver dating from 1515 and weighing about 160 kilos. Corpus Christi is the only day in the year when the monumental and rich Monstrance, which is normally displayed in the Cathedral Museum, is taken out and paraded through the town.
The interior of the Monstrance, one of the most exquisite jewels of Christianity, was made with the first gold brought from America. A second exterior monstrance, made in silver and later bathed in gold, protects the first one. To this gold and silver, pearls and gems are affixed and it is in the design of a Gothic tower. The procession begins at midday: the bells of Toledo begin to peal, and the first to appear is a group of giants representing the different continents. On Habeas Sunday, the Monstrance which is the focal point of the Corpus Christi celebration, leaves the Cathedral protected by silent guards of old brotherhoods, knights, and guilds and is courted by the crowd that moves through the scented medieval streets. Then the procession itself leaves the cathedral, bearing the Monstrance and accompanied by the religious guilds in order of antiquity.
If you wish you can watch the proceedings from the seats arranged along the streets by paying in advance at the booth installed in the Zocodover square. You will also have the chance to see the beautiful interior courtyards inside the city’s mansions and stately homes, as these buildings open their doors to the public on the day of the Corpus. There is also a programme of events lasting a week which includes concerts, shows and sports competitions.
"A blackened ruin, lonely and forsaken,
Already wrapt in winding-sheets of sand,
So lies Toledo till the dead awaken,
A royal spoil of Time's resistless hand."
-ZORRILLA
-ZORRILLA
My Personal Experience:
I had heard about Corpus Christi when I studied here awhile back. I came during the winter months, so I never really gave it much attention. Unfortunately, I have to say the same feelings arose for this past Corpus festival. I had arrived the week prior to Habeas Sunday. So naturally all my thoughts and energy were focused on setting up my new life here in Spain. Probably also the reason it has taken me almost 2 months to write this blog.
Dani, Ana, their roommates Mari and Mari-Carmen and I all met in front of Dani’s apartment to head to Zocodover late in the morning. I knew it was Corpus Christi, but I was more excited just to get out of my apartment and do something besides job searching and unpacking. The small group of us made our way to the Casco where all streets had been blocked off for the large amount of people that engulfed this small city.
I knew it was an important holiday here, but I had no idea how much pomp and circumstance went into it. Within minutes, I had my camera out taking pictures of every little detail. My second time around in Spain, I find myself looking more closely at the smaller things. Previously, I took pictures of the large monuments and enormous cathedrals. Now I find myself obsessed with the ancient stone work and ornamental details that I had overlooked before.
As we made our way through the crowd, we found a nice little intersection we took over to see the whole procession as it passed into Zoco. However, within half an hour, our little intersection had become overrun with people pushing their way through the crowds. I smiled because I was amused by little old ladies hitting each other with their purses and yelling at one another in Spanish on the most religious holiday in Toledo.
Dani and I @ Corpus
Well, as for most famous processions, it didn’t start on time and the crowds were starting to get on all of our group’s nerves. Therefore, Dani and I ventured off to see if the crowds were more sparse anywhere else. No such luck. We talked to the rest of the group and agreed to separate for a bit. So Dani and I returned to Zoco to sit for a bit and wait to the procession to begin. Once we started hearing the bells and clamor arising from within the winding streets, we stayed near a little café to watch the procession. It was beautiful. A bit too crowded to fully enjoy everything, but breathtaking none the less.
The Monstrance
I gazed as all the groups of people dressed in traditional and ceremonial clothes made their way through the crowds. Each group carried different religious icons and I wish I understood at the time. Only after researching the festival have I learned their significance. Finally the Monstrance made its way to the main square where everyone began to clap. I fervently took as many pictures from as many different angles as I possibly could. I must admit that I’m jealous of the Catholic religion on occasions like this. Wishing I understood the cultural and religious importance that it truly represented. But not being a Catholic nor very religious, once the procession ended and the ceremony began with the Archbishops speeches, I didn’t mind when Dani asked if we could leave. We met up with the group as we headed back down the hill from Zoco and then returned back to our normal hectic lives. But for a few moments, I was able to enjoy the wonderful culture of Spain and let my personal worries ease to the back of my mind. Hopefully next year’s Corpus will hold more significance for me and I can truly feel the momentous importance of this ancient festival.
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