Granada (La Alhambra), Spain

A WORK IN PROCESS.... THIS IS GONNA BE A LONG ONE! :)

Granada is one of the most important cities within Spain and in my opinion around Europe in terms of diversity and beauty.  Located towards the sourthern part of the country, its warm tempertures and rich history make it a top tourist destination.  I know it was for me and after being in Spain for well over a year, I felt a bit ashamed that I had never made it down to the infamous Alhambra.  Well, in late August my grandmother Sandy and aunt Colleen made their first trip to Spain to come visit me.  I took a few days off of work to travel with them so what a perfect opportunity it was to discover this breath-taking city together!
HISTORY

Granada’s history reads like an excellent thriller, with complicated plots, conspiracies, hedonism and tricky love-affairs. Granada began life as an Iberian settlement in the Albayzín district. Muslim forces took over from the Visigoths in 711, with the aid of the Jewish community around the foot of the Alhambra hill in what was called Garnata al Jahud, from which the name Granada derives; granada also happens to be Spanish for pomegranate, the fruit on the city’s coat of arms.

After the fall of Córdoba (1236) and Seville (1248), Muslims sought refuge in Granada, where Mohammed ibn Yusuf ibn Nasr had set up an independent emirate. Stretching from the Strait of Gibraltar to east of Almería, this ‘Nasrid’ emirate became the final remnant of Al-Andalus, ruled from the increasingly lavish Alhambra palace for 250 years. Granada became one of the richest cities in medieval Europe, flourishing with its swollen population of traders and artisans. Two centuries of artistic and scientific splendour peaked under emirs Yusuf I and Mohammed V in the 14th century.






It all went pear-shaped as the 15th century wore on: the economy stagnated and violent rivalry developed over the succession. One faction supported the emir, Abu al-Hasan, and his harem favourite Zoraya. The other faction backed Boabdil, Abu al-Hasan’s son by his wife Aixa. In 1482 Boabdil rebelled, setting off a confused civil war. The Christian armies invading the emirate took advantage, besieging towns and devastating the countryside, and in 1491 they finally laid siege to Granada. After eight months, Boabdil agreed to surrender the city in return for the Alpujarras valleys and 30, 000 gold coins, plus political and religious freedom for his subjects. On 2 January 1492 the conquering Catholic Monarchs, Isabel and Fernando, entered Granada ceremonially in Muslim dress. They set up court in the Alhambra for several years.

Religious persecution soon ensued. Jews were expelled from Spain, and persecution of Muslims led to revolts across the former emirate and their eventual expulsion from Spain in the 17th century. Lacking these talented elements of its populace, Granada sank into a deep decline from which it only began to emerge with the interest drummed up by the Romantic movement from the 1830s on. This set the stage for the restoration of Granada’s Islamic heritage and the arrival of tourism.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/granada/history


PLACES TO SEE

Which destinations should you visit on-foot? One is the Generalife Gardens. This is one of the world's loveliest gardens, and was once the home of Arab kings. But there's more to the gardens than pretty flowers. You can also view fantastic usages of water in the gardens. In fact, some people have compared the way that the water flows throughout the Generalife Gardens, as music or poetry.

The Alhambra from the 1300s is yet another major attraction that's worth climbing out of your rented car or truck, to see. This is where Moorish king governed Southern Spain until 1492. One of the must-see objects to view here is the fountain that faces the central courtyard. A set of 12 stone lions are used to support the magnificent fountain. Recently the fountain's big cats have been restored.

(Unfortunately, the lions were moved into an enclosed area last year or so and not available to be photographed.  Therefore, I had to take this pic from the internet.  I wish I could have seen it in its original glory)


Santa Ana is yet another destination that justifies parking your rented vehicle and then viewing. It's located at Plaza Nueva's northeast end. The features of this structure include an ornate doorway and a tower that resembles a minaret.

Yet another site that you should include on a walking tour in Granada, is the Palacio Arzobispal. Known in English as the "Archbishop's Palace," this structure faces the Granada Cathedral's west side. It primarily dates back to the 17th century.



Another must-see site during your walking tour of Granada, is the Carmen de los Martires. The water nymph located at the entrance is one of the top sites to see here. Then once you enter the formal garden, you can also enjoy a terrace that contains tall palm trees. These trees help to shade a three-level fountain underneath. Then while walking along the path, you can also enjoy a viewing a huge circular pool. A statue of Neptune overlooks the large pool.



Visit the Convento de San Jeronimo. It's located southwest of the Hospital San Juan de Dios. The church's walls are adored with wall paintings from the 1700s. Take the time to view the figures of Gonzalo and his spouse, which are positioned on either side of the high altar.



Before arriving in Granada, you should book your hotel online. That will guarantee that you'll have accommodations once you arrive in the Spanish city.

La Virgen de la Almudena

Almudena Cathedral is the cathedral of Madrid, Spain. Dating from the late 19th and 20th centuries, It's very new by European standards, and its traditional-meets-modern design reflects its youth.

History of the Cathedral

The site on which Almudena Cathedral now stands was originally occupied by Madrid's first mosque, then by a church dedicated to one of Madrid's patron saints, Santa María de la Almudena.

Plans for a grand new church began in the 16th century after King Philip II made Madrid the capital of Spain. But construction was constantly postponed due to various political issues and opposition from the powerful archdiocese of Toledo.

Finally, in 1868, Madrid received permission from Toledo to construct a new church dedicated to the Virgin of Almudena. Construction began in 1883 based on a Neo-Gothic design. The first part to be completed was the crypt, which contains a 16th-century image of Madrid's patroness the Virgen de la Almudena.

A year later, in 1884, Pope Leo XIII created the Diocese of Madrid, giving Madrid a bishop and raising the status of the new Almudena church to a cathedral. The building plans were updated to reflect the elevated status of the building.

Construction on the cathedral progressed slowly and came to a complete halt during the civil war of the 1930s. The process began again in 1944, when the new architect introduced a Neoclassical style that would match the Royal Palace next door.

Almudena Cathedral was completed in 1993 and consecrated in person by Pope John Paul II that same year. A statue of the pope in front of the cathedral commemorates the momentous occasion. The cathedral was given another publicity boost with the sumptuous wedding of Prince Felipe and Doña Letizia in May 2004, the first such royal event in nearly a century.

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/spain/madrid-almudena-cathedral

History of the Virgin-
I read about the history of the Virgin in Spanish so I'll give you a small run-down of how it came to be.

Basically in 712 Spain's capital was in Toledo (Madrid didn't become the capital until the 13th century). That year, the king was overthrown by the Muslim army and they established their strongholds in Toledo.  However, Madrid was still a strategic place for any army.  Fearing the coming invasion, the cristians of madrid decided to hide their images of the Virgen Mary and protect her from the infieles "non-believers"

Sermon given by priests to the Madrilenos after the fall of Toledo:

"Hijos míos: Los enemigos de nuestra fe han invadido todas las ciudades, villas y aldeas de España. ¡Es inútil la resistencia! ¡Dios así lo quiere! Es preciso que acatemos su santa voluntad, pidiendo de rodillas perdón por nuestras culpas. El que se encuentre con fuerzas para pelear, que pelee hasta morir en defensa de nuestra sacrosanta religión. Y aquel que sobreviva al duro combate, en el que sin duda seremos vencidos, que corra hacia las montañas donde se reúnen las huestes de los soldados de la Cruz, al mando de don Pelayo, para hostigar cuanto puedan a los invasores y trabajar por la libertad de la Patria. (Ver: Virgen de Covadonga)
Muza está en Toledo; conquistada esta ciudad, pronto el infiel caudillo se hallará delante de nuestros muros; antes de que esto suceda, antes de que Madrid caiga en sus manos, es preciso que pensemos en salvar los objetos que nos son más queridos. La Virgen Santísima, a quien tanto veneramos, que siempre ha sido nuestra abogada y protectora, que siempre ha oído clemente nuestras preces, no ha de caer en manos de nuestros enemigos, no hemos de permitir que su preciosa imagen sea profanada por los infieles.
Ocultémosla, mientras peleamos contra ellos, en el cubo de esta muralla contigua a este santo templo. Si vencemos, todos sabemos dónde la hallaremos para darle gracias por la victoria, y si, por desgracia, somos vencidos, líbrese, oculta en la muralla, del furor de los mahometanos".

So the Madrileno christians built a hub in order to hid the Virgen and there she stayed for three centuries.  Her whereabouts were lost through the generations but carefully hidden away from the non-believers that occupied Madrid soon after the Virgen was hidden away. 

In 1085, Don Alfonso VI "The Brave" reconquered Toledo and then returned to Madrid to restore the power to the Christians.  He knew of the legend that the Virgen was hidden hundreds of years ago so he set out to find the secret hub.  The original church had been converted into a Mosque so Don Alfonso searched and searched until it is said that the Virgen herself appeared surrounded by light and led the way to her hiding place somewhere in the original site of the church turned mosque on the 9th of November 1085. 

The following day, the Christians of Madrid held a procession to the remains of the original church looking for her exact location.  Soon they encountered an ancient wall below the sub-level of the mosque.  And what would they find behind this wall, but the Virgen that was hidden centuries before.  She was placed back to her original status as the Christians regained power in Spain.  Over the next few centuries, the Virgen was moved from church to church throughout different cities but after the construction of the Almudena Cathedral where she resides today.

My Experience

The Virgen of the Almudena is a holiday only in Madrid.  Therefore, I never learned anything about this holiday nor its legend in my studies or really throughout my time here in Madrid.  As a matter of fact, most people I asked (even the Spaniards) didn't really know the exact history of the holiday.  All they knew was that it was a day off in order to praise the Patron Saint of Madrid. This particular holiday fell in line with Spain's Constitution Day so it made for a very short work week. 

Most of this windy, chilly day I stayed around the house cleaning.  But in the early afternoon I decided to hit up some shops up near Opera/ Sol and then stroll through the Palace gardens and towards the Almudena Cathedral to see what all the fuss was about.  Once I entered the gardens, there were buckets and buckets lining the street with vendors chanting at everyone to buy small bundles of flowers.  "Flowers for the Virgen! Get your flowers for the Virgen!" 

As I got closer to the Cathedral, I noticed that every other person had an offering of flowers.  Some were the small bundles from the street vendors while other had enormous, beautiful bouquets.  When I reached the corner I realized just how important La Virgen de Almudena was in Madrid. 

It was quite the spectacular sight to see.  I clicked some photos and walked around the Cathedral watching all the people give their offerings and say a little prayer at the base of the statue of the Virgen.  I wanted to step inside the Cathedral to see if there were anymore decorations but a service had just gotten out and no one was allowed to enter at that time.  So I made my way back around the side streets passing more and more people with their flowers.  Yet another great example of how much importantance Spain puts on the Christian religion. 

Websites:
http://www.corazones.org/maria/almudena.htm
http://www.madridpedia.com/node/1325/

An American Thanksgiving in Spain

This year I completely embraced the Thanksgiving tradition!  Luckily, I work at the US Embassy on Thursdays so being an American holiday, all my students got the day off.  Therefore, I did too! I took advantage of the oportunity to prepare a Thanksgiving feast for my roommates and some close friends.

I made several trips to the American store in the Embassy to pick up a few essentials and ordered my turkey from a local butcher.  Turkey isn't as popular here as in the US so we bought only parts of the turkey.  It was easier since there were only 5 of us and faster to cook.

My friend Melissa, a Puerto Rican girl who recently moved to Madrid, was super excited to try a traditional mainland US Thanksgiving meal.  She stopped by my place early in the afternoon to help me cook while all my other roommates were at work.  We cranked Christmas music all afternoon as we were starting the feel the holiday spirit.

By the time my all my roommates got home, it was around 10 o'clock (typical dinner time in Spain).  I put together the table and we all sat around where Nikki and I told stories about our past Thanksgivings back in the United States.  We had to explain what all the food was to our Spanish compadres as they hungrily and confusingly stared at all the rarities on the table.  When everything was out, we went around the table and said what we were thankful for that year.  I said for the opportunity to share my culture and for experiences that I have been blessed to have throughtout my time here in Spain.

Then we dug in everything and went to sleep content and FULL!


That Saturday was also my company's Thanksgiving luncheon. This year we had it at Nicoletta, a really nice Italian resturant. It was fun getting a big group of Americans and non-Americans together to share amazing food, wine and some laughs.





 

After the lunch, a large group of us continued to some pubs and bars where we drank, chatted and danced the night away.

It was yet another interesting Dia de Accion de Gracias and I wouldn't have changed a thing :)

I Can Still Be Shocked!

I thought I've gotten accustomed to all the odd traditions, manners and general activities here in Spain.
I'm used to turning off lights and taking quick showers.
I can ignore cat calls and general bias from people thinking I'm a guiri tourist.
I even know how to do a pretty mean 'smoke bomb' (inside jokes for any English-speaking Spaniards)

I've sampled all the finest delicacies this fine country has to offer...

but when I walk into the kitchen and see this:

well, let's just say that I was short of words for a few seconds!

Don't get me wrong.... PULPO is one of my favorite meals here in Spain! But I enjoy it when it's already cooked, cut and covered in yummy cream sauce!

For exampple this delicious steamed potato and octopus salad! DELICIOUS!

Not sitting on my stove, boiling next to a cup of its own ink!

Ugh, talk about loss of appetite!

Birthday #24

Another birthday flew past me about 6 weeks ago.  Once again it shot upon me unexpectingly as I was still on a family high from my aunt and grandmother coming to visit just a fews weeks prior and adjusting to a new work schedule. 

I followed the same theme as last year- simplicity.  Like I explained, summer months are usually tight on the wallet especially later in the month.  So I invited everyone to my apartment (my 2 wonderful roommates made absolutely gracious hosts), I cooked a variety of American dishes and bought liters and liters of beer for everyone.  My apartment is substantially bigger than the apartment I was staying in for my last birthday so I got to decorate and invite a lot more people.

I got a much better turn out than last year... especially considering I've made a lot more friends over the course of this year.  However, something still wasn't the same.  Dani, my Spanish best friend, didn't come and some other close friends that I was expecting had other personal reasons that kept them away.  But those who did, had a very good time if I dear say. 

ME AND MICHELLE

I spent hours preparing all the goodies.  One of my best friends here, Michelle came over a little early to help my prepare.  She also brought me some goodies including my adorable birthday cake.  My amazing roomie, Nikki helped my cook and clean all day too.  When everyone started to arrive, they were met with an incredible assortment of snacks like pigs in a blanket, spicy chicken dip, deviled eggs, pasta salad, all the essentials.  To top it off, for dessert we had Michelle's cake and tirumisu and mini- French Toast bites.  A breakfast food in our culture.... but a complete culture shock for all the foreigners! Everything was a big hit!

 I spent majority of my party in the kitchen but it was well worth it to see everyone having a good time. The beer and liquor flowed steady for the next 3 hours or so. When all the food had been administered, one of my favorite students asked me about a promise I had made to teach the Spaniards some American drinking games. haha! it was hilarious watching them trying to master flip cup and understand the rules to beer pong. We were all laughing so hard that it actually brought my next door neighbor over to complain about the noise level. Oops! I mean c'mon.... it's Saturday night, my birthday and the first time we've had anyone over at all. But I told my nosey neighbor that we'd be leaving soon and we'd try to keep it down until then.

I kept my promise as 20 minutes later we ran out of alcohol.  So obviously it was time to move on.  I didn't have a specific after-place in mind.  I figured we'd take suggestions and see how many people actually wanted to head out after.  Majority we still wanting to party and my good friend Martin knew a place not far from my house that played decent music and was a fun but chill place.  Everyone supported his choice and we headed there.  It was a really fun bar that played a mix of american rock and pop with some spanish singles.  We stayed there till I'd say around 530-6 when the place closed down.  I still had some energy left but everyone else was pooped so we called it a night and went home.

Overall, it was one FANTASTIC birthday.  The actual day was nothing special. I had work all day and called my family at night.  A lot of my friends and family sent me cards which is always a nice suprise :)  The party beat all my expectations... so than you to everyone who was apart of my special day! MUCHOS BESOS Y MIL GRACIAS A VOSOTROS!

JALOGUIN 2010

I officially survived my first Halloween in Spain. Well, there's really not much to survive as most of what is celebrated comes from the American traditions.  Anyways, last year I wasn't able to take part in Spain's version of Halloween as I was back in Chicago for my aunt's wedding.  So this year, I was really looking forward to see what kind of show Madrid puts on for this event.  I must admit that I had lowered my standards for a few reasons: 1.) Halloween has always been my favorite holiday so I take it very seriously  2.) My university boosts to reputation of having the US's best Halloween! (GO BOBCATS)  3.) I normally spend a minimum of 5 weeks planning out my costume, decorations and plans for that weekend.

I knew that Spain would never come close to my past experiences but I was still looking forward to having a good time.  This year Halloween fell on a Sunday.  For all you Catholics, November 1st is Dia de los Santos (All Saint's Day).  Therefore being in Catholic Spain, that Monday was a national holiday which meant no work. Considering this, my friends and I decided to go out big on Halloween night.  Friday and Saturday I took it pretty easy as I wasn't feeling 100% and I wanted to be well rested for Sunday.

We started rather early at around 4:30 to get ready.  We all met at my friend K's house to do our makeup.  The week before, we discussed our costumes and plans.  Each of us chose an average person like a cop, biker, schoolgirl, ect... then we would ZOMBIE-FY the heck out of it.

You see in Spain, they keep to the original tradition of Halloween where one must dress up as something terrifying- if you decide to dress up at all.  So there are no children dressed as their favorite Disney characters or superheroes, there's no portrayals of our favorite musicians, actors, or other celebreties and there's absolutely no young women dressed in provacative costumes.  All that remains are witches, devils, ghouls and.... zombies!

After we were pale, scabbed and bloodies up, we met some other friends and headed to this abadoned factory that was taken over and turned into a free venue for the weekend.  My friend M is a really good DJ so him and another friend got a space in the factory to play some jams.  This was seriously the perfect place to host a crazy Halloween party.  The factory had been abadoned for what seemed like decaded as all the wall and floors were collapsing around us.  Every inch of the place was covered in spray paint and had random chairs, boxes, and other slightly disturbing random objects.  Normally, I wouldn't be caught dead in a place like this but for Halloween... it was PREFECT!  To make things better, it was BYOB so we stocked up at the local convenience store before and spent the next 4 hours drinking, dancing and mingling with other ghoulish creatures.

We headed out at about 10 to get a few more drinks and tapas.  As we strolled the streets, almost every person stopped to stare at the spectacle we were.  (Again I must reiterate that Halloween is not anywhere as popular as it is in America)  After, we stopped again at K's house to do make-up touches and eat some dinner.  Then we found more friends and went to a Halloween costume party nearby.  By 1ish, we left to hit some more bars and clubs... most of which I don't really remember.  I took my Zombie-self home around 4am in a taxi wondering why the driver was giving me such weird looks! Then as I got into my apartment building and caught my reflection, I realised how ridiculous I looked. hahaha I had already forgotten that I was covered in zombie gook.  I poured myself in bed with delight at how well that night had been. 

I must say that Madrid definitely beat my expectations I had had for Halloween.  No, it's nothing like America but Spain always knows how to throw one crazy party!

Back to that Same Ole Place...

SWEET HOME CHICAGO!

One of the strangest (yet, most fantastic) culture differences I've encountered in Spain is their extensive vacation time.  They have random holidays at least once a month and during the summer, most employees can take up to 1 MONTH of vacation if they didn't take too many extended holidays during the year.  1 MONTH paid holidays... are you kidding me??  Well, with the Spanish culture being the way it is, there isn't a lot of work during the summer months as large percetages of people are gone July, August or September.  So my academy requests strongly (basically, requiring) that every teacher take off at least 1 month of the summer.  Unfortunately, being foreigners, we don't get the priviledge of paid vacation time. 

I planned my vacation for months.  I knew I wanted to go home as I haven't been there since the previous October (and that was for only 5 days!) So an extended period of time was definitely in order.  I contemplated for months when I should go back.  I decided on the month of July.  I'd make it in time for the 4th, it was my mother and siblings birthdays and my really good friend Sarah was having her wedding shower/ bachelorette party.  I wanted to go to her wedding instead in September and take my vacation time then, but it just so happened that my grandmother and aunt were planning a trip to visit me in Spain during that time.  So, July was the obvious alternative!

At the end of June as classes were ending, I decided to move apartments.  I was having difficulties with my roommate and mostly, I just wanted a change of scenery.  One of my colleagues and close friend, Nikki told me that one of her roommates was moving out the end of July. We thought about living together before so this just seemed to perfect.  After my month of vacation, I could move in with her and not worry about paying an extra month of rent.  Perfection. 

After weeks of anticipation, the day had finally arrived! And wouldn't you know it... all the subway workers conviently decided to hold their huelga (work strike) the same day.  So I was walking around the streets with 2 large suitcases, unable to take public transport and not an available taxi in sight! After over an hour, I finally spotted an old couple getting out of a taxi and quickly slid into the backseat.  Already exhausted, I arrived and the airport and made it to my plane. One layover and 14 hours later, I finally landed in Sweet Home Chicago.

My family met me at the airport and within minutes were arguing and screaming at eachother as we walked to the car.... ahhhh so good to be home :)

The first week was spent cell phone less as my parents 'misplaced' my old one and going to doctor/ dentists appointments.  Oh joy, 3 cavaties and my WISDOM TEETH had to be removed.  Spain clearly doesn't have flouride in their water!  So the end of my first week and most of my second week was spent popping pain killers and eating nothing but pudding, jello and ice cream (can't complain too much)

For the 4th of July, one of my friends had a huge picnic and bonfire.  I got to see a huge group of people that I haven't seen or really spoken to in over a year.  Luckily, it was like I never left.  We sat around talking about the same old, same old with a few Spain questions thrown in the mix.  At night we lit off a small armoury of fireworks.  The following days were spent visitng family and hanging out with friends: bowling trips with my siblings, laying poolside with cocktails, hitting up all my old hangouts, baseball games, birthday parties, Taste of Chicago and simply relaxing at home.  That's what I love about my life... no matter how long I'm gone, I know I'm always welcomed back and it's as if I never left. 

Here's a collage of random awesome events throughout the month with my awesome friends:

@ Teehans

@ The Taste of Chicago

4th of July

 besties in Naperville

Chris's Bday Bash

Thunderbolts Baseball Game w/ Meg

prepared for our 1st night out together :)

Probably the most important thing I did back home was getting a tattoo.  I had 2 already and was thinking about a third for quite some time.  But knowing that this would be my last one (at least for a while), I wanted it to be something meaningful... at this point in my life, there's nothing more meaningful to me than my siblings.  So I researched for weeks and weeks prior to coming home for something that would really illustrate how important they are to me. 

I liked the idea of a short phrase.  But nothing really seemed poetic enough in English.  I thought Spanish would just be korny.  So I opted for the root of most modern languages: Latin.  Not being one really to show off my 'artwork', I opted to put it on my foot.  I already had a small heart above my little toe so I knew that I wanted to incorporate it into this tattoo. Therefore, I decided to get 5 additional smaller hearts- each one to represent each of my 5 siblings. After searching even more, I finally found a phrase I wanted, the most basic phrase that completely 100% says how I feel...

SINE VOS NON POTERO VIVERE

WITHOUT YOU I COULDN'T LIVE

 The last week I travelled back to my college days by flying to Ohio for Sarah's bridal party weekend. I stayed with my best friend from OU- Amy and her boyfriend. We spent hours gossiping, watching bad movies, walking around Cleveland and making jello shots! Majority of my closest friends came in for Sarah's shower so it was incredible to see everyone again. We laughed, cried, drank a LOT as we reminisced about the good old days. Sarah's shower was during the day and later that night we started her bachelorette party at her sister in law's house before hitting some bars in downtown Cleveland. I was an amazing night with some really amazing ladies! I said goodbye the following day, hugging everyone and fighting back the tears as I returned back to Chicago.

MORE PICS FROM OHIO...

Amy and I in Cleveland

Cleveland Skyline

Sarah's Wedding Shower

A few days after that I was doing it all over again but this time to all my family and friends back home as I boarded the plane back to Madrid.  The month flew by and I only got through a fraction of the things I wanted to do on my list.  I got to spend time with most people I wanted to and I send my deepest apologies for anyone that I didn't.  I love Spain, but these last few months I'm really starting to miss Chicago.  Being away definitely helps you put things in perspective.  I now know that Spain will always be one of the best highlights of my life but I also realized that the latter part of my life will be spent in America.  Spain has my heart forever but the US is where I belong.  So as you have probably figured out, I've decided to return back home.... but not until next summer!  haha I still have a few more adventures left to have here in Spain. 

our ritual goodbye Sushi Dinner